quarta-feira, 15 de agosto de 2018

Cambodia - Where to Go, What to Do

The reality

I had a concise time in Cambodia but was enough presence the painful history. Until nowadays, Cambodians don’t feel comfortable to talk about their past for fear from the government which still remains. Until 1979 (Khmer Rouge) the population had their property and homes confiscated, they were relocated to forced labor camps, watched family members die of exhaustion and murder, children were abandoned, education, healthcare, and economy stopped. Teachers, doctors, "thinkers person" and all “elite” were tortured and executed, counted as 2 million people murdered. The consequence is a poverty country in which the income is less than U$3 per day.

Angkor Wat


Thumb painted from 1 week to show who has voted from the Country


The Dream – Big Empire

It is ironic to think that Angkor was the capital city of the Khmer Empire, a megacity supporting at least 0,1% of the global population during 1010-1220. This makes it the largest urban agglomeration in recorded history before the Industrial Revolution, and its buildings use far more stone than all of the Egyptian structures combined. There are more than a thousand temples, and the major temples are around 1,000km2. Angkor Wat which means “city of temples” is the most massive religious monument ever built in the world. It is the UNESCO World Heritage site and considering the 7th Wonder of the World.

Angkor Wat 


The highlight of this short trip it was:

Ta Prohm – Nature strength over the man labor

Apart from the main temple, I was wondered to see the force of nature over the human building. Ta Prohm is famous for the large vines that strangle the ruins which makes that place magic and almost unreal.

Ta Phrom - Siem Riep

Ta Phrom - Siem Riep


Old Market – Where the fishes meet the clothes

I have been to many markets in my life, however, I have never seen staff sell everywhere from the top to the floor. What fishes were jumping into clothes stores is just one example. Another one is the different types of cheap protein selling everywhere (bugs and insects).

Óld Market, where the fishes meet the clothes


Amok - Traditional Fish Soup


Tonle Sap Lake

This place reminds me of Amazon, in Brazil which thousands of families were living on the floating houses which move everywhere. They make their lives fishing. I had a remarkable sunset view of this lake.

Tonle Sap Lake

Tonle Sap Lake - Crocodile Farm

A driver to recommend – Mr Lucky

To go from one temple to another, the best is to go with a taxi driver. We had a fantastic experience with Mr. Heng (Lucky), which make the most of our short period. His website you can book in advance. 
http://www.angkordailydriver.com

An excellent option to stay in Siem Reap: Tan Kang

A clean place with excellent air-conditioning, breakfast, swimming pool and reasonable price.
Convenient location, close to the pub street, Night Market and Old Market.

If only I had more time to visit the great country but it was enough to be in contact with the beautiful people I found there and definitely, I will go back and more things to be written here.

Angkor Wat

Vietnam - Where to Go, What to Do

Ninh Binh - Kong Skull Island - View Point
This post is dedicated to who made this trip extraordinary and unforgettable experience in Vietnam: Katie and Kathie (Di La Va).

The desire to visit Vietnam came after telling my Vietnamese friend that I was going to Thailand and she provoked me saying that I should go to Vietnam instead and I will not regret it. What a stunning landscape, history, relaxing and friendly people I met, from the urban city like Hanoi and Ho Chi Min to rural countrysides like Ninh Bin and Sapa. Many cultures influenced these people such as the native Dong Son, China, India, and French colonialism. 

My itinerary was 12 days from Hanoi, Sapa, Halong Bay, Ninh Binh, Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh. Below, I will describe the main cities and some tips, starting with Sapa. 

Sapa

Close to the Chinese border, it is known for its hill tribes and trekking. The hill tribe make up the majority of trekking guides in Sapa, showing you their backyard. The trek through the vibrantly green rice terraces cascade down rugged mountains in Sapa is unforgettable and spectacular. And very surprising is to see young lady guide carrying her baby with pure plastic flipflops all the way down and up while I was struggling with my boots. 
Sapa - Ta Van - Rice Fields

Sapa - Ta Van - Rice Fields

The girl and her pet. Poor pet or a poor girl?

Homestay in Sapa, messing up the kitchen
Wild strawberries in Sapa, the real one, without genetic modifications

Indigo to color the clothes... and my hand


Tips:
-Take an overnight bus to Sapa and organize the trekking with the guides in Sapa.
-Stay in a homestay where you can experience a bit of their life, cooking and knowing a bit more about them.

Hanoi

Hanoi
 Hanoi was the city where I could have a fantastic introduction to Vietnamese culture in this places my local friend recommended me:

Dong Xuan Market: local market. It was the cheapest place to buy everything in Vietnam, in the Old Quarter. Not many tourists are found there indeed.














Buncha: Buncha is a rice noodle with grilled pork, and this place sells it in Old Quarter

The address: 43 Hang Buom


Lotus Water Puppet Show: I was amazed by the music and show and an excellent opportunity to learn about their instruments, music, and culture.  It takes place over a waist-deep pool of water telling the history of Vietnam, planting rice, fishing and village folklore. The secret of how puppeteers control the puppets from beneath the water has been closely guarded for centuries.  The skills include passing objects from puppet to puppet. But for me, the best part was the music and musicians. Voice, traditional instruments were a must see.


Lotus Water Puppet Show


Old Quarter - Hanoi


Hoan Kiem Lake which means “Lake of the Returned Sword” is a graceful, red-painted wooden bridge which leads to Son Temple in the middle of the lake.

Hoan Kiem Lake - Turtle Tower - Old Quarter - Hanoi


Quan An Ngon: the authentic Vietnamese street cuisine cooked at stalls in the garden courtyard, offering dishes from South, Central, and North of Vietnam. The place itself is worth a visit, located in a beautiful garden. It was the best restaurant experience I have been in the last years. One more thanks to the Kathy which introduced me to this a genuine place.

Quan An Ngon

Old Quarter offers cheap shopping, plenty of backpacks, and delicious food to try.

To stay: definitely in the Old Quarter.
One cozy, fun and affordable suggestion which I stayed is Cocooninn Hostel www.cocooninn.com

Tips: you must try in Hanoi the egg coffee where egg yolk and condensed milk are whipped together to make a sweet and airy head.


The entrance of the best egg coffee with the best view from Old Quarter and the Lake

Egg Coffee


Temple of Literature is a 1000-year-old temple to education which was almost destroyed by war in the 20th Century. What I like most was the number of old and beautiful bonsais which reminded my daddy.

Temple of Literature - Hanoi


Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum: The first president of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam lies embalmed there, “Uncle Ho”. Visitors are allowed to pay their respect under strict rules: no photography, no shorts, and silence.


Bibh Minh Jazz Club
Binh Minh Jazz Club 
Mr. Minh, the owner, an excellent saxophonist, give a very sophisticated show every night. I loved listening very much and seeing the improvisation and connection the band has between them, and I felt delighted to realize that a musician is running a bar for ages to foreign listeners.

Crossing the street: seriously, this is part of the tourism in Vietnam. No traffic signal is respected. The only rule I could learn is to make eye contact with the drivers and go confident crossing in the middle of thousands of motorbikes and cars.

Halong Bay
Halong Bay means “where the dragon descends to the sea” is one of the world heritage sites. This region is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Vietnam. There are many boats which explore the giant emerald green pond. I would recommend staying overnight, and you can see the sunset and sunrise.

These companies do tours in Halong Bay: Oasis Bay and Halong Party Cruises.

Halong Bay - Sunset
Halong Bay

Halong Bay - Canoying

Freedom Island - Halong Bay


Ninh Binh

Rice Field - Ninh Bin
 Ninh Binh is also known as the Ha Long Bay on land instead of water. As of Halong Bay, there are hundreds of limestone monoliths with green rice field on the bottom with rivers flowing through them and caves. This place is getting more famous because the latest movie King Kong filmed there. It is an excellent opportunity to see the rural way of living in Vietnam.

Tam Coc is the most populous site in Ninh Binh where you can see mountains, rivers, caves, rice fields. The boat peddler takes you through the river. The peddlers have learned to peddle with their feet to avoid getting injured.

Tips: this there are so many tourists, and they pester tourists by selling food and drinks along the river.
Trang An: “The Green Sea” is a complex of mountains and caves to which you can only get to by water.

Van Long Nature Reserve: same as Tam Coc or Trang An but less touristic.

Dragon Mountain Viewpoint/Hang Mua Peak: it was the best hike ever in Vietnam. It is only 500 
stair climb but entirely worth with a panoramic 360-degree view of the countryside.
Kong Skull Island - View Point - Ninh Binh


To stay: Ninhbinhvalley homestay. If you love nature, this place will be perfect. One large lake in the middle of milestones and a bungalow house where you can wake up with the fantastic view of the song of nature. 
Ninh Binh Valley Homestay

Ninh Binh Valley - Homestay - What a view for a toilet

Hoi An
Hoi An - Night Market

Hoi An was served as a major port for Japanese, Chinese, Indian and Dutch traders up until the 17th century. With the narrow brick streets, tailor shops and electric lights at night was made into a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are plenty of cheap tailor shops to order clothes, bags, shoes, and boots. I felt so happy to have my first jackboot close to the knees.  There are no boots which fit my calf in this world, so, it needs to be customized. And everything ready in 1 day.









Eco Cooking Tour: it is an excellent tour where you can ride on the Thu Bon River through the Coconut Forest, which is an ecological zone and then have some cooking lessons.


Cloth Shop: Mr. Xê – 71 Nguyen Thai Hoc St
Shoe Shop: 351 Nguyen Duy Hieu St
Email: thuhuong5687@gmail.com

Avana: if you like unique clothes, this is a store from an Italian woman who has been living there for ages and had an incredible creativity (57 Le Loi). 

Hoi An


Ho Chi Minh City
Ho Chi Minh Tunnels
 -Cuchi tunnels are a massive network of underground tunnels that once served as a command post for Vietnamese forces including hospitals, entertainment facilities, kitchen, weapons factories, etc. It is more than 200km, 9 meters under the soil and it is amused to see the creativity of them building it. There are three levels underground; however, visitors can have a small experience until the second level down. The third one which is a scape of the river is not allowed.
Tip: try to cross the tunnel is you can.
If you are into shooting, you can try shooting a Kalashnikov or an AK 47 for a small fee.

Ben Thanh Market Saigon: a symbol of Ho Chi Minh City
Thai Binh Market: the second cheapest place to buy bags, shoes, clothes, souvenirs, etc.

To eat:
-Corner Restaurant – Buivien: a cozy and pleasant place to be and view the atmosphere of the city. 

Corner Restaurant - Ho Chi Minh City

To stay: Ailen Garden Hotel (2 stars Hotel close to Vien Street which is the center of backpackers´ tourism. 

If you are looking for a different place to visit, you should not miss Vietnam. From North to South, beautiful sceneries to be seeing and experiences to be lived.  Have a safe trip and write your tips. 

domingo, 12 de agosto de 2018

Thailand - Where to Go, What to Do


I dedicated this post to my close friend who traveled all the way from Brazil to explore this country with me and made this trip very special, Gisele Paiva.

To start with before you go to Thailand, it is crucial to know that:
-You cannot insult the Thai royal family; otherwise, you may go to the prison.
-You must cover yourself to see the temples, which means shoulders and long skirts, no pants!
-If you have any food intoxication, treat yourself over there as they know their medicines to cure it. Don´t come back sick to your country!  

Bangkok
Grand Palace - Wat Pharakareo - Bangkok
One of the craziest cities I have been, mainly the small street Khao San Road, full of shows, backpackers, and cheap accommodation. Capital of Thailand, Bangkok is the largest and most developed city surrounded by grand palaces, temples, weird museums and cheap protein knowing as bugs and insects. Some places to visit in Bangkok include:

Wat Pho: it is famous for its reclining Buddha measuring 46 meters long and 15 meters high.

The Grand Palace: the most glorified and world-renowned landmark in the capital.

Grand Palace - Wat Phrakareo - Bangkok

Wat Arun: the temple is covered from top to bottom with tiny pieces of colorful glass and Chinese porcelain.

Wat Arun - Bangkok
Sky Bar: the tallest building in Thailand is a fancy place for a drink and a viewpoint of the Bangkok.

Ayutthaya: it can be done one day trip from Bangkok, the World Heritage protected ruins.
It is famous for the iconic Buddha head entwined within the roots of a banyan tree at War Maharat.

Ayutthaya



Ayutthaya

One option of 3 stars Hotel is Dang Derm Hotel on the heart of Khao San Road, where everything happens. The swimming pool, on the top of the hotel, is delightful.

Erawan National Park - Natural Spa Treatment

Erawan Falls – close to Bangkok:

Located in Kanchanaburi, it is five hours away from Bangkok, and it is a complex of waterfalls with seven levels with an incredibly blue and emerald colored waters. It is a place for local people as you don’t see too many tourists. The particular waterfall in my opinion was the first one on the button with fishes eating your dead skin and doing a free spa treatment; I must agree that it was the gratifying moment to feed them.










Erawan Falls

Erawan Falls
  
Tip: if you make one day trip with any company you book on Khao San Road, chose for going straight as the waterfall is quite big and you need proper time to explore it. There are other packages including this waterfall plus additional places, but then you will not see properly. Don´t forget that the trip is already 5 hours from Bangkok. However, if you are really into waterfalls, the best idea is to book a hotel close to it.


Khao San Road - Food options


Krabi – Railay Bay

Phranang Cave Beach - Krabi - Railay - Thailand
Railay Bay is a peninsula with dense jungle, cliffs for climbing, and a relaxed spot to be. Railay Bay is not a party destination but a place to relax and have amazing experiences. I had a few memorable highlights from this bay starting from when I arrived there. We saw many people full of mud from the bottom to the top, and I was wondering which party or tribe they were coming from. When we were exploring the island, we could see a steep hill with some shoes on the floor and from that moment I decided that it was a place to go.

How to arrive in Railay Bay: fly to Krabi, get a shuttle bus from the airport to Ao Nang (45 min) go to Ao Nang by bus and get a long tail boat to Railay (15 min). 

Phranang Cave Beach - Long Tail Boat - Railay - Krabi


Phranang Cave Beach: the east side of the Railay Bay is surrounded by limestone cliffs, stalactites, and stalagmites where many people come mainly for that, as it is one of the top places for rock climbing in Thailand which fits beginners and advances. You can also walk and swim around this cave which makes an exceptional place to be. Also, the sunset was out of this world. You really must stay there to have the full experience of this place. A small cave is also very famous there, Princess Cave, which an extensive collection of carved wooden phallic symbols, close to 100 phalluses.


Railay Viewpoint: for the best view in Railay, a hike up is a must. The hike itself isn´t particularly long in the distance but is difficult where requires scaling and incredibly cliff using nothing but your strength and your bare feet digging the mud; otherwise, your shoes will be stuck there. I confess that it was terrifying and exhausting, manly if you look down.

The beginning of the hiking for the Secret Lagoon. After that, I was too busy to think of any picture
Secret lagoon: If you made the hike to the viewpoint and feel like getting more from it, follow the mud to the “Secret Lagoon”. The hill down into the lagoon can test your limits, especially if it has rained recently and the trail was full of mud, which was my case.

Railay Bay - Secret Lagon - Krabi, arriving in the late afternoon. 
I confess I was shaking, not sure if for the exhaustion, fear or excitement to reach the lagoon and to ask everybody which were coming back from there if there was still someone. I didn´t want to be 100% alone in this hiking, even if I was apparently alone. Finally, I saw the lagoon, and there were still three people! All sides enclose the pool except for a wide opening at the top. As I went in the late afternoon, my view was the moon in the middle of the lagoon, feel like a small grain of sand in the button of a cup surrounded by night insect’s noises like cricket and birds around the caves. The best period to go is in the high tide when the ocean fills the lagoon deep enough, which was my case. Yes, I put my tongue to check if it was salty to guarantee that was coming from the ocean. After this personal conquest, I made my way back alone but not alone. My goal is with the other 3 and arrives while I still could see something and not hurt myself because it could be a big deal, but my desire was stronger than my sense of judgment about conditions.

The lagoon and the moon on the top




Poda Island - Long Tail Boat - Krabi



Day trip: there are some packages to see the islands around from Railay Beach: Chicken Island, Poda Island, Tupi Island, etc.

Tips: Watch out your things. Monkeys are everywhere, and I saw an organized attack on tourists where they came together along the beach and stole in the same time bags, wallets, food, a bottle of soft drinks and cigarettes. After that, they run on the top of the trees and opening every pocket to check if there was any food, while coins, cards, cash and the mobile phone, all of them fell all over the place.

To stay: Avatar Railay Resort, a friendly, and affordable 3 Stars Hotel on the west side of the Island, with the mangrove view.
http://www.avatarrailay.com/


Maya Bay - The Beach - Phi Phi Island

Phuket – Phi Phi Island The deadly 2004 tsunami destroyed the island, and the entire coast was devastated. They rebuilt it and now is even more touristic than before. The main reason for people visiting Phuket is Phi Phi Island where the main attraction is Maya Bay, famous by the movie The Beach, with clear crystal water, white sand powder and lush tropical vegetation. The other strong reason is the night parties where you see a lot of shows with fire around the beach. I need to assume that it wasn´t my favorite place comparing with others I have been on the same trip, Railay Bay, for example, my favorite beach. However, I was surprised by the marvelous sunset from the viewpoint, and for this reason, I didn´t regret.


Phi Phi View Point - Phuket
Phi Phi View Point: the most stunning sunset in Thailand you can reach the top in 20 minutes and wait for the show. This mountain was the place where many animals run all the way up to save from the Tsunami, and we can see the pictures before and after this fatal disaster on the top.

Islands around: there are other islands to see, apart from Maya Bay, such as Bamboo Island, Mosquito Island, Koh Phi Phi Leh, for example, where they sell a day trip package.

Phuket City/Patong Beach: I don’t have anything exited to tell about the city. The only thing is that I was impressed by the parasailing activity at Patong Beach, the main beach at Phuket. However, a couple of weeks after my trip there was news that an Australian fell to death parasailing in Phuket.  


Parasailing - Phuket


Chiang Mai

As Chiang Mai sits at a higher altitude, the temperature was less hot than other cities, but it still a boiling city. However, if you visit the highest peak which we did, it was freezing! A laid-back town, Chiang Mai is the most affordable place I have been on this trip to Thailand, from accommodation, Thai massages, food, and market in general. Furthermore, if you want to have teeth treatment, it is also a place to go. The city is quite small, and with a bicycle or a motorbike, you can smoothly go around.


The way they sell it is a sanctuary where you can feed, observe, bath and walk with elephants.  I am not here to judge if this is an indeed “sanctuary” of elephants or not. I intended to go to a place where I believe they didn´t mistreat them as a circus. However, this experience made me question a lot about this tourist activity in Thailand where animal cruelty is prevalent but well-hiden.. Elephants are huge animals, brilliant and hard to control them. If they want to break trees, cars, motorbikes or even kill people they do it. Also, mahouts “need to control them” not to hit tourists, to behave themselves and probably the way to “teach” elephants are not the nicer we think. I heard that if an elephant kills or hit a person, which happens quite often, they sell to “another” sanctuary to “retreat” the elephant. But they also say that a bad elephant will always be a bad one, and they cannot keep it as they are not good enough for the “sanctuary”.

Chiang Rai - White Temple - Wat Rong Khun 
Chiang Rai White Temple (Wat Rong Khun): A day tour from Chiang May, the temple is a contemporary, unconventional, privately-owned art exhibit in the style of a Buddhist temple in Chiang Rai Province. The main temple is reached by crossing a bridge over a small lake with hundreds of outreaching hands that symbolize unrestrained desire. After crossing the bridge is the “gate of heaven”. It is a shocked place to be actually.

Gold Triangle Day Tour: it is not worth it. The trip stops at hot springs but nothing that you can enjoy it and continue to the border between Thailand and Burma. They took us to a market which was supposed to be cheaper in Burma as there is no tax charge, but no difference in the price and I ended up buying nothing so far. The only thing that was cheap was pear but when the van stopped before going to Burma.

Long Neck Hill Tribe Village (Karen Tribe): they are world famous for their women, who wear golden rings around their necks, from the time they are 5 to their 21st birthday, each year one ring is added to their collection. They take them off only once a year for 3-4 yours as their necks could break if the rings weren´t worn for longer than that. The tradition started to protect the tribe from the tiger attack as the neck is the first part of the body to be attacked. Nowadays, according to them, the longer the neck, the more beautiful the woman who wears them is. It looks like a human zoo where you can take pictures of women dressed in colorful outfits with a neck so long which looks like a giraffe. They are not allowed to leave their villages. If they want to stay in Thailand, they must remain in the land they were given. They are Burmese refugees who are not recognized as a citizen by the Thai government, and they are denied education, healthcare, geographically confined and often exploited for the tourism economy. Poor ladies who maintain these rings for money and surviving from humans who want to take selfies of the human zoo.

Chiang Mai Night Market: the best place to buy stuff in Thailand from the places I have been, definitely, if you want to buy anything, better here than Ko Phi Phi, for example.


Night Market in Chiang Mai - What a leg!




Doi Inthanon - Doiangkha - Agkha Nature Trail
Doi Inthanon National Park: It is famous for its number of waterfalls, rice fields, viewpoints and cold weather. It is the highest place in Thailand, especially the Summit, the highest Point in Thailand with a short walk from the parking in the middle of the humid forest which reminded me amazingly Tasmania.


The Twin Royal Pagodas of Phra Mahathat Naphamethanidon: the two pagodas were built to commemorate the King and Queen´s 60th birthdays. When we went there it was raining, so, the fog made a place a mystical and beautiful garden


Naphamethanidon
And to finalize it, one more picture with cheap protein. From north to south, bugs are everywhere, it means that you should try it because, trust me, it is not too bad.
Warms, bugs, cockroaches, scorpions and so on